2025 06 03 – Over Tourism and Industrial Fishing in Antarctica

On June 6 2023, we published a post alerting on over tourism in Antarctica.

We estimated 111.000 visitors  from the pre-season permits. Actually, the complete data showed  122.000 visitors (IAATO statistics) .

Worse, since 2022, the numbers of Antarctic cruise ships and visitors increase steadily.

Over tourism is a huge problem

Our initial concern has been widely relayed. For instance, try web searches: “Antarctica overtourism” and “antarctica tourism figures” .

Direct observation. Between 2022 and 2025 we saw more and more passenger ships. We  observed:

- up to 3 passenger ships waiting to disembark in turn, 100 tourists at a time.
- passenger ship dumping its black waters less than 1/2 mile from the coast.
- passenger ship chasing 3 humpback whales for its tourists to take pictures.
- several large passenger ships (over 2000 passengers) sailing very close to the shore.
- luxury engine-powered super yachts.
- we also recovered trash, like gloves, plastic pieces, etc. after passenger ships left.
- fast boats at full speed close to the shore to disembark tourists ASAP.
- etc.

The players

The Antarctic Treaty Authorities control the tourism through National Agencies. They are in charge of delivering permits to the touristic ships.

They rely on the Madrid Protocol that defines the rules for disembarking and sustainable navigation.

 IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators). IAATO is a privileged partner of the Antarctic Treaty Authorities. This private association claims to promote responsible tourism.

IAATO members compromise to respect the Madrid Protocol, therefore  for them, the permits are easier to obtain from the Authorities.

The non-aligned

Non-aligned ships, mostly sailboats. They are not IAATO members, but they have legal permits and they must follow the Madrid Protocol.

Non-aligned associations like ASOC (Antarctic and Southern Oceans Coalition)   that really worry about Antarctica.

.. including Sea Shepherd, which conducts an active Antarctica campaign.

Problems

The over tourism is boosted by a massive demand, amplified  by the social media, and an increasing offer to match this demand.

Whereas the offer could be controlled by restricting the permits, IT IS NOT, for 2 reasons:  inefficient control from the Antarctic Treaty and conflict of interest from IAATO and some of the countries.

1 – Some countries, members of the Antarctic Treaty, actively promote Antarctic Tourism.

For instance Chile is promoting Antarctic mass tourism, using Puerto Williams as starting base (new port for cruise ships, big hotel for passengers, charter flights …). In parallel, Chilean shipyards are constructing Antarctic cruise ships (source: direct observation, Chilean press).

2. The  Antarctic Treaty Authorities are  NOT empowered to  forbid navigation in Antarctic  (international waters)

This allows giant passenger ships to sail very close from the coast and the animals, provided that they don´t disembark.

3 – There is no global coordination between the countries of the Antarctic Treaty to limit the number of expeditions and/or visitors.

4 – IAATO is a clear example of conflict of interest.

One the one hand they promote a responsible tourism through a set of rules. These rules are necessary for cruise ships and mass disembarking, but they are sometimes pointless and even counter-productive.

On the other hand, most or the IAATO members are tour operators and cruise ship owners. See IAATO membership directory (2025).

This includes powerful companies like  Ponant, Hurtigruten, Viking, Silver Lines…  obviously willing to maintain or increase their touristic activity.

Note that IAATO Directory now includes 4 giant cruise ships above 3000 passengers. Obvious mismatch with their declared philosophy.

Conversely, many sailboats that were historical members of IAATO quit, leaving only 10 of them. In 2024, a majority of the sailboats were non-aligned (internal IAATO source).

Effect on Antarctica and its fauna

Currently it is difficult to dodge the cruising ships in the Antarctic Peninsula. Many places are even overcrowded, with several ships waiting to disembark.

Whatever the “commercial green washers” say, all the passenger ships have a huge carbon footprint,  consume tons of combustible and their repeated visits create a local pollution.  See ASOC technical publications.

Whatever the ” biologists for hire” say, the colonies of animals resent this constant invasion, see what happens in Galapagos Islands (source: former local Biologist).

… And now industrial fishing

The industrial fishing is another serious issue,  see Sea Shepherd Antarctic Campaign.

Personal observation. In 12 days (January 2025) we detected 2 Chinese industrial fishing boats accompanied by a cargo boat, 3 Norwegian industrial fishing boats, all fishing krill.

The krill is mostly used for animal nutrition. For instance it became the main aliment for Salmon Farms in Chile (internal source , Chilean Salmon Farming Company).

Basically you steal the whales´ food  to produce industrial fish.

And once again, the Authorities  do nothing.

2024 06 05 – Carbon footprint of a sailboat Antarctic expedition

Carbon footprint of a 3 weeks Antarctic expedition on  Sonabia 2:

255kg CO2 per person

Antarctic expedition on Sonabia 2

Carbon footprint per person on a 3 weeks trip Ushuaia-Antarctic-Ushuaia,

255 kg of CO2 per person


diesel fuel consumption per person: 93kg, footprint 248.7 kg of CO2. 
1 kg of diesel produces 2.68kg of CO2 equivalent.

propane gas for cooking per person: 2kg, footprint 6kg of CO2.
1 kg of propane produces 3kg of pure CO2.

TOTAL 255kg of CO2 per person

Food and other personal supplies are not counted (would be the same if you stay aground). The transportation of fuel and gas to Ushuaia is not counted.

Measured on  2 Antarctic expeditions,  season 2023-2024.

What about a passenger ship?

The minimal carbon footprint for an Antarctic cruise on an ” ideally ecological” passenger ship is:

857 kg CO2 per person

We consider a 1500 nautical miles trip (2778 km), a fuel consumption of  320g per person and nautical mile (optimistic) and that the ship only uses light diesel fuel (whereas many ships still use heavy fuel oil, which is more polluting). We do not count the additional CO2 sources: food on board, land visit, using big outboard engines.

Air travel

Air travel to and from Ushuaia considering 3 European destinations: Madrid, Paris, London

1347 to 1580 kg of CO2 per person

Madrid: 12.427 km, 1347 kg of CO2 (Madrid-Buenos Aires-Ushuaia)

Paris: 13.440km, 1437 kg of CO2 (Paris-Buenos Aires-Ushuaia)

Londres: 13.669km, 1580 kg of CO2 (London-Madrid-Buenos Aires-Ushuaia)

source: ICAO carbon emission calculator.  Round trip, tourist class.

Total footprint of your holidays

FIRST CASE: backpackers and travelers: you are already in Ushuaia.

255 kg of CO2 per person

Second case: air travel from Madrid / Paris / London.

1602 / 1692 / 1835 kg of CO2 per person

What if you stay at home?

According to your diet, the carbon footprint of your food for a full year is:

1500 kg to 3300 kg CO2 per person

Source: Afrouzi et al. (2003), Result in Engineering Vol 18. 

Warning.  estimates valid for the industrial food available in the USA.

 

 

2023 09 03 – Antarctica on Sonabia 2, February 2023

A few  videos from our trip to Antarctica on Sonabia 2, February 2023

The Portal of Dreams, by Carlos Guevara Vivanco, on Sonabia 2.
Gold Winner at European Photography Awards.

Lemaire Passage

Gerlache Strait

Chilean base Gonzalez Videla, Paradise Bay

Argentinian  Base Almirante Brown, Paradise Bay

Enterprise Island


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2023 06 03 – Tourism in Antarctica – Alert!

UPDATE 2025 06 03. This post was written in 2023.  We estimated 111.000 visitors from the pre-season permits, whereas the complete data showed 122.000 visitors. See the situation 2 years later.

There were many cruise ships in Antarctica in 2022-2023.

In some spots several ships were waiting to disembark in turn (we, sail ships, avoid most of these spots).

70 cruise ships,  468 trips, 111.400 visitors: this is what the Antarctic Treaty allowed for the season 2022-2023

Since the season 2019-2020, the Antarctic Treaty allowed: 
26% more visitors 
79% more ships 
61% more travels

Compare with small ships (sail ships and motor vessels below 70 persons): 34 vessels, 90 trips, 1299 visitors: this is 1.2% of the visitors.

Source: Antarctic Treaty database

The Antarctic Treaty delivers mandatory permits before the season. So we know how many visitors, boats and trips are allowed.

Warning: the actual figures may be slightly different (2023 06 03: the figures for the season 2022-2023 are not updated yet).

1) cruise ships are not always full;
2) inversely some ships are not listed, for instance seen in the Drake: a ship with 2300 passengers, in Antarctica: a ship with 1950 passengers.

database - pre-season 2022-2023     
pdf - list of ships

database - pre-season 2019-2020       
pdf - list of ships

xls - lists of ships and totals

2023 02 12 - Paradise Bay

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2023 05 13 – Sonabia 2: sustainable fuel consumption

 

Sonabia 2:   boring figures

Antarctica February 5 to March 2, 2023
6 persons,1484 nautical miles (nm), i.e., 2750 km.
Total fuel consumption 671 liters, 232 engine hours.
Averages: 2.88 L/ engine hour, 0.45 liter / nautical mile,  0.38 kg/nautical mile, 0.063 g/ person x nm

64 grams of combustible per mile and person

This corresponds to a very low carbon footprint: why?

    • Sailboats under sail do not use the engine (wow, great thinking).
    • Under engine, low fuel consumption (relatively light boat, slow cruising speed, engine compliant with new European norms).
    • There is no luxury, no need to waste fuel for excessive heating, strong illumination, bubble baths, etc.

Cruising ships: boring figures

On modern cruising ships, hybrid propulsion (electric motors + fuel  or GPL generators) consume and contaminate less than classical heavy fuel engines [2].

Consumption figures are not public, however, here are safe estimates

For a small passenger ship, 200 passengers,in economical mode (observed on AIS: 13 knots in Antarctica)

Pessimistic estimate : 100 tons of fuel or equivalent per day. 
Source [1]. 
100 tons per day means 4167 kg/hour, 320 kg/nm, 1.6 kg/passenger x nm.

Optimistic estimate: 20 tons of fuel or equivalent per day.
Source. Consumption of modern cargo ships [3, table in 1], equivalence cargo ships - cruise ships of similar displacement, using a conversion factor 40% (gross tonnage vs. metric tons; data of several cruise ships available on the web)
20 tons per day means 833 kg/hour, 64 kg/nm, 320 g/passenger x nm.

320g to 1600g of combustible per mile and passenger

Clearly, passenger ships are not environment – friendly, even with modern propulsion systems. Actually, passengers ships consume more than cargo ships, for 2 reasons

    • Luxury.  Facilities like illumination, heating, unlimited hot water, restaurants, etc. require energy (produces by engines and/or auxiliary generators).
    • Speed. It is  necessary to push the engines to meet deadlines and arrive fast on the touristic spots (observed on AIS: often above 18-20 knots).

Environment friendly?  slow and rustic navigation

Sonabia 2: engine, Nanni 85HP, Euro norms.

Cruise ship: example of engine [2]

 



Sources: 
[1] https://www.marineinsight.com/know-more/how-much-fuel-does-a-cruise-ship-use/
[2] https://www.cruisemapper.com/wiki/752-cruise-ship-engine-propulsion-fuel
[3] https://maritimepage.com/fuel-consumption-how-much-fuel-cargo-ship-use/
[4] https://www.cruisemapper.com/wiki/753-cruise-ship-sizes-comparison-dimensions-length-weight-draft

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2023 03 12 – Sunrise on Cape Horn

2023 03 12 – Cape Horn at sunrise.  The timing was precise. The weather forecast predicted a change of wind around 09:00AM (local time)

So we sailed towards the south during the night with a back wind. We monitored constantly the barometric pressure.

At sunrise we were in position, NW of Isla Hornos. The wind changed as expected.  We crossed Cape Horn towards the east with a back wind, about 18 knots  with gusts up to 25 knots.

 

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2022 12 13 – Sonabia – A nice Cape Horn

2022 12 13 – SV Sonabia. Cape Horn under staysail and reefed main sail.

A calm night at anchor in Caleta Maxwell, Hermite Island near Cape Horn. Sailing  when a front arrived. The wind came from W-NW and within a few minutes it increased to Force 7, gusts 35 knots and more.

Caleta Maxwell in the morning, the same day

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2022 11 21 – Sonabia: 25th Cape Horn


On 2022 11 21, 17:49 UTC time, Sonabia rounded Cape Horn for the 25th time.

 

The first Cape Horn was in Dicember 2012.

After 3 years, Sonabia sailed back to Puerto Williams in 2016 and was present for the 400th anniversary of the discovery of Cape Horn (Caap Hoorn).

From then, we sailed around Cape Horn during the seasons 2016 and following.

In March 2020, the last trip of the season was cancelled for COVID (Lock down of Navarino Island).

After two years, we could sail again to Cape Horn.

To put things in perspective, Sonabia is a – relative – new comer, some skippers rounded Cape Horn more than 100 times.

However 25 successes out of 26 attempts is a respectable score.

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2021 08 03 – Sonabia 2 under sail

Sonabia 2 was launched on 2021 07 29 at Socoa, Iparralde, France. She is an expedition boat for the Great South (Cape Horn, Antarctica)

First test under sail on 2021 08 03 at Hendaye, France.  Wind 6-8 knots, no waves, no current.

 

 

Sonabia 2 sails swiftly, I expected a brutal boat. In fact she is as smooth as a kitten.

Performance: true wind: 6.5 to 6.9 knots , speed 5.6 knots (close beating), 6.2 knots (open beating).

Not bad for an expedition boat! Configuration:  main and genoa 110m2, load~12.5 tons, keel down, 3.4 tons, draft 2.95m).

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2018 12 21 – Cape Horn between two gales

2018 12 21 – Departure from Puerto Williams. We stop in Puerto Toro for the night

Picton Channel. Courtesy Jerry Swift

 

Puerto Toro. Courtesy Peter Goodier

 

2018 12 22 – Anchored at Caleta Martial, Herschel Island, Wollaston Archipelago. The wind is increasing, gusts above 45 knots. We wait.

2018 12 23 – 0600 We sail around Cape Horn during a short period of calm.  Residual swell ~3m

Cape Horn. Courtesy Jerry Swift

2018 12 23 – Back to Caleta Martial. Under engine, the wind is building up fast. During the night, gusts above 50 knots. We wait again

Caleta Martial, S/Y Vahiere in 40 knots. Courtesy Jerry Swift.

2018 12 14 – At 1900, we head north towards Puerto Toro and Puerto Williams. The wind has decreased to 25 knots, gusts above 30 knots.

 

Jerry Swift’s paper: www.unmondedaventures.fr

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2016 01 29 – Cape Horn, 400 years

On January 29, 1616 Cape Horn was discovered by Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire on the vessels  Eendracht and Hoorn. The Cape was named for the city of Hoorn, in Netherlands.

400 years later, the Chilean Navy celebrated the event, and the sailship Sonabia was invited.

Carlos Guevara, Chilean Photographer with his wife and daugther, Sylvie, Damien were the crews of this nice trip.

Carlos’s account of the event (in spanish): Navegando a vela en Cabo de Hornos, una aventura para el recuerdo.

Photos courtesy of Carlos Guevara Vivanco.

Photos courtesy of Damien Lochon

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