2025 06 03 – Overtourism and Industrial Fishing in Antarctica

On June 6 2023, we published a post alerting on over tourism in Antarctica.

We estimated 111.000 visitors  from the pre-season permits. Actually, the complete data showed  122.000 visitors (IAATO statistics) .

Worse, since 2022, the numbers of Antarctic cruise ships and visitors increase steadily.

Over tourism is a huge problem

Our initial concern has been widely relayed. For instance, try web searches: “Antarctica overtourism” and “antarctica tourism figures” .

Direct observation. Between 2022 and 2025 we saw more and more passenger ships. We  observed:

- up to 3 passenger ships waiting to disembark in turn, 100 tourists at a time.
- passenger ship dumping its black waters less than 1/2 mile from the coast.
- passenger ship chasing 3 humpback whales for its tourists to take pictures.
- several large passenger ships (over 2000 passengers) sailing very close to the shore.
- luxury engine-powered super yachts.
- we also recovered trash, like gloves, plastic pieces, etc. after passenger ships left.
- fast boats at full speed close to the shore to disembark tourists ASAP.
- etc.

The players

The Antarctic Treaty Authorities control the tourism through National Agencies. They are in charge of delivering permits to the touristic ships.

They rely on the Madrid Protocol that defines the rules for disembarking and sustainable navigation.

 IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators). IAATO is a privileged partner of the Antarctic Treaty Authorities. This private association claims to promote responsible tourism.

IAATO members compromise to respect the Madrid Protocol, therefore  for them, the permits are easier to obtain from the Authorities.

The non-aligned

Non-aligned ships, mostly sailboats. They are not IAATO members, but they have legal permits and they must follow the Madrid Protocol.

Non-aligned associations like ASOC (Antarctic and Southern Oceans Coalition)   that really worry about Antarctica.

.. including Sea Shepherd, which conducts an active Antarctica campaign.

Problems

The over tourism is boosted by a massive demand, amplified  by the social media, and an increasing offer to match this demand.

Whereas the offer could be controlled by restricting the permits, IT IS NOT, for 2 reasons:  inefficient control from the Antarctic Treaty and conflict of interest from IAATO and some of the countries.

1 – Some countries, members of the Antarctic Treaty, actively promote Antarctic Tourism.

For instance Chile is promoting Antarctic mass tourism, using Puerto Williams as starting base (new port for cruise ships, big hotel for passengers, charter flights …). In parallel, Chilean shipyards are constructing Antarctic cruise ships (source: direct observation, Chilean press).

2. The  Antarctic Treaty Authorities are  NOT empowered to  forbid navigation in Antarctic  (international waters)

This allows giant passenger ships to sail very close from the coast and the animals, provided that they don´t disembark.

3 – There is no global coordination between the countries of the Antarctic Treaty to limit the number of expeditions and/or visitors.

4 – IAATO is a clear example of conflict of interest.

One the one hand they promote a responsible tourism through a set of rules. These rules are necessary for cruise ships and mass disembarking, but they are sometimes pointless and even counter-productive.

On the other hand, most or the IAATO members are tour operators and cruise ship owners. See IAATO membership directory (2025).

This includes powerful companies like  Ponant, Hurtigruten, Viking, Silver Lines…  obviously willing to maintain or increase their touristic activity.

Note that IAATO Directory now includes 4 giant cruise ships above 3000 passengers. Obvious mismatch with their declared philosophy.

Conversely, many sailboats that were historical members of IAATO quit, leaving only 10 of them. In 2024, a majority of the sailboats were non-aligned (internal IAATO source).

Effect on Antarctica and its fauna

Currently it is difficult to dodge the cruising ships in the Antarctic Peninsula. Many places are even overcrowded, with several ships waiting to disembark.

Whatever the “commercial green washers” say, all the passenger ships have a huge carbon footprint,  consume tons of combustible and their repeated visits create a local pollution.  See ASOC technical publications.

Whatever the ” biologists for hire” say, the colonies of animals resent this constant invasion, see what happens in Galapagos Islands (source: former local Biologist).

… And now industrial fishing

The industrial fishing is another serious issue,  see Sea Shepherd Antarctic Campaign.

Personal observation. In 12 days (January 2025) we detected 2 Chinese industrial fishing boats accompanied by a cargo boat, 3 Norwegian industrial fishing boats, all fishing krill.

The krill is mostly used for animal nutrition. For instance it became the main aliment for Salmon Farms in Chile (internal source , Chilean Salmon Farming Company).

Basically you steal the whales´ food  to produce industrial fish.

And once again, the Authorities  do nothing.

2025 02 10 – Thieves on board

 

Nadia and Sergi were last-minute crews for Antarctica. Young people from Barcelona traveling in South America. They were funny and congenial, so welcome aboard and we set sails.

Ups! They were Smokers. They smoked almost continuously, outside of course but as a result their clothes and the cabin were stinking of tobacco.

They also Drank a lot. They stored a lot of booze in their cabin and when it was over, they  helped themselves directly in the reserve of the boat.

When I found Sergi and another crew completely  drunk on the deck at 2:30 in the morning in Antarctica, there was a big clash.

And Nadia ran out of supplies. She started to roll her cigarettes in cardboard or toilet paper. As a result, she transformed into a spoiled brat, breaking on purpose the safety rules. More clashes.

And  things went even worse. They had not realized that the trip ended in Puerto Williams, Chili, and not in Ushuaia, Argentina,  as they wanted.

Indeed we told them so before we started, but they did not care.

They started to rant about that, and about the price of the ferry Puerto Williams- Ushuaia.  Nadia  tried to coerce me to bring them back to Ushuaia.

What they did afterwards is disgusting. For the first time ever, a few hundredth US$ disappeared from the boat, as well as some clothing (Sergi´s size). I cross-checked carefully and there is no doubt: Nadia and Sergi were the thieves.

They went to Antarctica for a minimal fee, we lent them our own warm clothes, etc. Grateful people.

And after stealing, they did even worse, it was vile and despicable. They are exposed in the next post.

 


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2024 06 05 – Carbon footprint of a sailboat Antarctic expedition

Carbon footprint of a 3 weeks Antarctic expedition on a sailboat:

255kg CO2 per person

Antarctic expedition

Carbon footprint per person on a 3 weeks trip Ushuaia-Antarctic-Ushuaia,

255 kg of CO2 per person


diesel fuel consumption per person: 93kg, footprint 248.7 kg of CO2. 
1 kg of diesel produces 2.68kg of CO2 equivalent.

propane gas for cooking per person: 2kg, footprint 6kg of CO2.
1 kg of propane produces 3kg of pure CO2.

TOTAL 255kg of CO2 per person

Food and other personal supplies are not counted (would be the same if you stay aground). The transportation of fuel and gas to Ushuaia is not counted.

Measured on  2 Antarctic expeditions,  season 2023-2024.

What about a passenger ship?

The minimal carbon footprint for an Antarctic cruise on an ” ideally ecological” passenger ship is:

857 kg CO2 per person

We consider a 1500 nautical miles trip (2778 km), a fuel consumption of  320g per person and nautical mile (optimistic) and that the ship only uses light diesel fuel (whereas many ships still use heavy fuel oil, which is more polluting). We do not count the additional CO2 sources: food on board, land visit, using big outboard engines.

Air travel

Air travel to and from Ushuaia considering 3 European destinations: Madrid, Paris, London

1347 to 1580 kg of CO2 per person

Madrid: 12.427 km, 1347 kg of CO2 (Madrid-Buenos Aires-Ushuaia)

Paris: 13.440km, 1437 kg of CO2 (Paris-Buenos Aires-Ushuaia)

Londres: 13.669km, 1580 kg of CO2 (London-Madrid-Buenos Aires-Ushuaia)

source: ICAO carbon emission calculator.  Round trip, tourist class.

Total footprint of your holidays

FIRST CASE: backpackers and travelers: you are already in Ushuaia.

255 kg of CO2 per person

Second case: air travel from Madrid / Paris / London.

1602 / 1692 / 1835 kg of CO2 per person

What if you stay at home?

According to your diet, the carbon footprint of your food for a full year is:

1500 kg to 3300 kg CO2 per person

Source: Afrouzi et al. (2003), Result in Engineering Vol 18. 

Warning.  estimates valid for the industrial food available in the USA.

 

 

2023 07 08 – The 3 Little Pigs and the Big Bad Boar

pictures: Cincinnati Zoo Blog, Animal Activist Watch

How NOT to choose your crew mates

In 2021, Sonabia 2 crosses the Atlantic from Hendaye, France to Puerto Williams, Chile. Then COVID allowing, down to Antarctica.

At the time of selecting the crew mates, we said YES to anybody.

We did not care about experience, we just accepted acquaintances that were congenial and motivated.

It turned out to be a bad decision.

3 Little Pigs in the Atlantic

The 3 crew mates were inexperienced in long oceanic sailing.

They were warned about the difficulties, long time in open sea, night watches, and most important heavy weather in the roaring forties.

About the Antarctic, they were warned about the demanding Drake Passage, and told that navigation in the Antarctic was relatively easy, in comparison.

All of them said ” yes”, but none of them really understood what was expecting them.

Little Pig No 1, a nice lady but…

A nice lady, in her sixties. She sailed to Cape Horn on Sonabia but she was totally ignorant about oceanic sailing. In her mind it was ” the cruising of love”.

 

 

Before leaving, she complicated the preparation with her whims, e.g. Irish tea, kilos of cocoa (never consumed), a larger pillow (never used), and so on.

In open sea,  well… Inside, she was bumping everywhere,  outside, she was unaware of the sea conditions, dangerous or not. Instead, she had irrational fears. And she was quite controlling.

Little pig No 1 disembarked in Canarias.

Little Pig No 2, a good willing crew but…

A congenial man in his sixties. He helped in the construction of Sonabia 2. The last years, he had been sailing as a crew with not-so-experienced sailboat owners.

 

In open sea, Little Pig No 2 was good willing, not sea sick, took charge of the cooking. On the deck, he learned the basic maneuvers of non-furled sails.

However, he was technically very limited. He never learnt to sail with instruments and the autopilot was a personal enemy. A real danger during his watches.

And never ask him to repair something. His method was: “dismount everything then try to assemble it again” . Sometimes without success.

He was tired when we arrived in Argentina. He told me there about a hernia and he had a sore shoulder. He sailed down the roaring forties as a sick passenger, with a daily report to the Argentinian authorities.

He disembarked in Puerto Williams, Chile. He was examined at the Naval Hospital and luckily, the doctor found out that he had nothing serious.

Little Pig No 3, afraid of the sea but …

A wildlife photographer in his forties, he had a short experience of sailing. However, he had previously sailed to Cape Horn on Sonabia.

 

 

From the beginning, Little Pig No 3 has been taking anti-seasickness tablets, and he did not stop for the next 2 months!

Living in a chemical cloud, he protected himself in his own filth. His cabin was a dark, smelly cave. He was himself dirty and very stinky. I had to oblige him to wash himself.

On the deck, he participated to the maneuvers, but not effectively: apprehension, chemical cloud, fear of getting hurt… After more than 6 weeks he confessed that he always had been scared of the water!

Arriving to Argentina, Little Pig No 3 stopped the tablets. He cleared his mind and behaved very well in the roaring forties, which were demanding: heaving-to 6 times for bad weather!

He disembarked in Puerto Williams after a quarantine, but did not make it to Antarctica: his partner could not join us in Chile on time.

Anyway, big hands for Little Pig No 3!

Big Bad Boar, the experienced braggart

A man in his sixties, Big Bad Boar presents himself as an experienced sailor. He worked a few hours on the construction of the boat, interrupted by a judicial episode *.

 

Big Bad Boar was not interested in the Atlantic Crossing, but he wanted to go to Antarctica. To my partner, he presented himself as the Providential Man. He joined us in Puerto Williams, Chile, while we were in quarantine.

The reality was quite different. Big Bad Boar was sick and apprehensive in the Drake Passage. In the Antarctica he had a panic attack that ended in a violent episode,  related elsewhere

2021 07 02: Mutiny in the Antarctica, the nightmare of the family

Big Bad Boar was evacuated in the middle of Antarctica.

Big Bad Boar is now telling out his “exploits”. I reckon that he has a huge ego, but as for his honesty and  mental balance, I am skeptical.

 

Conclusion

Unlike passengers, crews have to be skilled and mentally fit. We learnt it the hard way.


 

*Big Bad Boar´s name is Josu Guerra Tolosa, or Jesús María Guerra Tolosa. He served house arrest for harassing and threatening a woman.

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2023 07 02 – Mutiny in Antarctica, the nightmare of the family

 

February 10, 2022, on my sailboat in the Antarctic Peninsula, the crew JGT suffers a panic attack that degenerates into a violent psychotic episode. He is evacuated the next day.

The short story is here: 2022 02 10 Mutiny in the Antarctica

For me (Eric, on board) it was stressful but somehow entertaining. For Maite, my partner it was a nightmare.

Since then, JGT (Josu Guerra Tolosa) tells of his “exploits”. He even contacted Maite to give his “version” of what happened. Forgetting that she heard his screams herself, on the satellite phone.

This is insulting, after what he put her through. Watch the following video and compare the proven facts with his “version”

Now, with Maite´s permission here is the true sequence of events, supported by satellite SMS between Sonabia 2, Maite and the Chilean Navy, mails and notes in the computer´s log file.

Note. All the supporting documents are available on demand, privately.


Sound tracks from Pixabay, FreeSoundLibrary, Mixkit

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2023 06 03 – Tourism in Antarctica – Alert!

UPDATE 2025 06 03. This post was written in 2023.  We estimated 111.000 visitors from the pre-season permits, whereas the complete data showed 122.000 visitors. See the situation 2 years later.

There were many cruise ships in Antarctica in 2022-2023.

In some spots several ships were waiting to disembark in turn (we, sail ships, avoid most of these spots).

70 cruise ships,  468 trips, 111.400 visitors: this is what the Antarctic Treaty allowed for the season 2022-2023

Since the season 2019-2020, the Antarctic Treaty allowed: 
26% more visitors 
79% more ships 
61% more travels

Compare with small ships (sail ships and motor vessels below 70 persons): 34 vessels, 90 trips, 1299 visitors: this is 1.2% of the visitors.

Source: Antarctic Treaty database

The Antarctic Treaty delivers mandatory permits before the season. So we know how many visitors, boats and trips are allowed.

Warning: the actual figures may be slightly different (2023 06 03: the figures for the season 2022-2023 are not updated yet).

1) cruise ships are not always full;
2) inversely some ships are not listed, for instance seen in the Drake: a ship with 2300 passengers, in Antarctica: a ship with 1950 passengers.

database - pre-season 2022-2023     
pdf - list of ships

database - pre-season 2019-2020       
pdf - list of ships

xls - lists of ships and totals

2023 02 12 - Paradise Bay

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2023 05 13 – Sustainable fuel consumption

 

Boring figures

Antarctica February 5 to March 2, 2023
6 persons,1484 nautical miles (nm), i.e., 2750 km.
Total fuel consumption 671 liters, 232 engine hours.
Averages: 2.88 L/ engine hour, 0.45 liter / nautical mile,  0.38 kg/nautical mile, 0.063 g/ person x nm

64 grams of combustible per mile and person

This corresponds to a very low carbon footprint: why?

    • Sailboats under sail do not use the engine (wow, great thinking).
    • Under engine, low fuel consumption (relatively light boat, slow cruising speed, engine compliant with new European norms).
    • There is no luxury, no need to waste fuel for excessive heating, strong illumination, bubble baths, etc.

Cruising ships: more boring figures

On modern cruising ships, hybrid propulsion (electric motors + fuel  or GPL generators) consume and contaminate less than classical heavy fuel engines [2].

Consumption figures are not public, however, here are safe estimates

For a small passenger ship, 200 passengers,in economical mode (observed on AIS: 13 knots in Antarctica)

Pessimistic estimate : 100 tons of fuel or equivalent per day. 
Source [1]. 
100 tons per day means 4167 kg/hour, 320 kg/nm, 1.6 kg/passenger x nm.

Optimistic estimate: 20 tons of fuel or equivalent per day.
Source. Consumption of modern cargo ships [3, table in 1], equivalence cargo ships - cruise ships of similar displacement, using a conversion factor 40% (gross tonnage vs. metric tons; data of several cruise ships available on the web)
20 tons per day means 833 kg/hour, 64 kg/nm, 320 g/passenger x nm.

320g to 1600g of combustible per mile and passenger

Clearly, passenger ships are not environment – friendly, even with modern propulsion systems. Actually, passengers ships consume more than cargo ships, for 2 reasons

    • Luxury.  Facilities like illumination, heating, unlimited hot water, restaurants, etc. require energy (produces by engines and/or auxiliary generators).
    • Speed. It is  necessary to push the engines to meet deadlines and arrive fast on the touristic spots (observed on AIS: often above 18-20 knots).

Environment friendly?  slow and rustic navigation

Sailboat engine, Nanni 85HP, Euro norms.

Cruise ship: example of engine [2]

 



Sources: 
[1] https://www.marineinsight.com/know-more/how-much-fuel-does-a-cruise-ship-use/
[2] https://www.cruisemapper.com/wiki/752-cruise-ship-engine-propulsion-fuel
[3] https://maritimepage.com/fuel-consumption-how-much-fuel-cargo-ship-use/
[4] https://www.cruisemapper.com/wiki/753-cruise-ship-sizes-comparison-dimensions-length-weight-draft

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2023 03 12 – Sunrise on Cape Horn

2023 03 12 – Cape Horn at sunrise.  The timing was precise. The weather forecast predicted a change of wind around 09:00AM (local time)

So we sailed towards the south during the night with a back wind. We monitored constantly the barometric pressure.

At sunrise we were in position, NW of Isla Hornos. The wind changed as expected.  We crossed Cape Horn towards the east with a back wind, about 18 knots  with gusts up to 25 knots.

 

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2022 12 13 – Sonabia – A nice Cape Horn

2022 12 13 – SV Sonabia. Cape Horn under staysail and reefed main sail.

A calm night at anchor in Caleta Maxwell, Hermite Island near Cape Horn. Sailing  when a front arrived. The wind came from W-NW and within a few minutes it increased to Force 7, gusts 35 knots and more.

Caleta Maxwell in the morning, the same day

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2022 11 21 – Sonabia: 25th Cape Horn


On 2022 11 21, 17:49 UTC time, Sonabia rounded Cape Horn for the 25th time.

 

The first Cape Horn was in Dicember 2012.

After 3 years, Sonabia sailed back to Puerto Williams in 2016 and was present for the 400th anniversary of the discovery of Cape Horn (Caap Hoorn).

From then, we sailed around Cape Horn during the seasons 2016 and following.

In March 2020, the last trip of the season was cancelled for COVID (Lock down of Navarino Island).

After two years, we could sail again to Cape Horn.

To put things in perspective, Sonabia is a – relative – new comer, some skippers rounded Cape Horn more than 100 times.

However 25 successes out of 26 attempts is a respectable score.

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2021 08 03 – First tests – Under sail

The sailboat was launched on 2021 07 29 at Socoa, Iparralde, France. She is an expedition boat for the Great South (Cape Horn, Antarctica)

First test under sail on 2021 08 03 at Hendaye, France.  Wind 6-8 knots, no waves, no current.

 

 

The boat sails swiftly, I expected a brutal boat. In fact she is as smooth as a kitten.

Performance: true wind: 6.5 to 6.9 knots , speed 5.6 knots (close beating), 6.2 knots (open beating).

Not bad for an expedition boat! Configuration:  main and genoa 110m2, load~12.5 tons, keel down, 3.4 tons, draft 2.95m).

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2018 12 21 – Cape Horn between two gales

2018 12 21 – Departure from Puerto Williams. We stop in Puerto Toro for the night

Picton Channel. Courtesy Jerry Swift

 

Puerto Toro. Courtesy Peter Goodier

 

2018 12 22 – Anchored at Caleta Martial, Herschel Island, Wollaston Archipelago. The wind is increasing, gusts above 45 knots. We wait.

2018 12 23 – 0600 We sail around Cape Horn during a short period of calm.  Residual swell ~3m

Cape Horn. Courtesy Jerry Swift

2018 12 23 – Back to Caleta Martial. Under engine, the wind is building up fast. During the night, gusts above 50 knots. We wait again

Caleta Martial, S/Y Vahiere in 40 knots. Courtesy Jerry Swift.

2018 12 14 – At 1900, we head north towards Puerto Toro and Puerto Williams. The wind has decreased to 25 knots, gusts above 30 knots.

 

Jerry Swift’s paper: www.unmondedaventures.fr

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2016 01 29 – Cape Horn, 400 years

On January 29, 1616 Cape Horn was discovered by Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire on the vessels  Eendracht and Hoorn. The Cape was named for the city of Hoorn, in Netherlands.

400 years later, the Chilean Navy celebrated the event, and the sailship Sonabia was invited.

Carlos Guevara, Chilean Photographer with his wife and daugther, Sylvie, Damien were the crews of this nice trip.

Carlos’s account of the event (in spanish): Navegando a vela en Cabo de Hornos, una aventura para el recuerdo.

Photos courtesy of Carlos Guevara Vivanco.

Photos courtesy of Damien Lochon

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